Classic 1920s Garage Manual
       

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Follow along as we build the O-scale version of our Classic 1920s Garage kit. The O version is of course easier to build because of its size. But even the N scale version isn't that hard to build. This kit requires only a little bit of patience to get great results.

The manual that comes with the kit includes detailed instructions and diagrams for building the kit. Here we're supplementing the manual with step-by-step photographs.

Choosing Variations

We've provide a number of choices you can make to customize this kit to your liking. In fact, you can build more than copy of this kit and the results can look very different. Before you build your kit, you might want to decide where you're going to put the finished kit and change the look based on your location.

To help you with this process, we've provided a page on the different variations you can achieve with this kit: See Variations.

Applying the Finish

It is far easier painting the sheets of parts before you remove any parts from the sheet. We prefer to use an airbrush to paint our models since an airbrush produces an thin, even finish. However, as you'll see here, you can also brush paint this kit.

You'll need to decide what colors to use for this kit. We suggest you use one color for the exterior walls, and another color for all the trim parts. You'll also want to choose between water- or solvent-based paints. No two modelers agree on which type of paint is a better choice.

If you're using water-based paints, you'll need to do something to prevent the wood from warping. We like to use removable double-coated tape (made by 3M) to stick the wood to a piece of plywood. Once the paint dries (30 minutes or so), you can remove the parts from the tape and they'll have little or no warping.

Use a wide brush and just enough paint to cover the walls with your main color.

One the main coat has dried, apply the trim color to the beam ends that protrude from each end of the side walls. If you're using a light color, like white, you'll may need several coats to cover completely.

Optional Door and Roof

Decided if and where you want the optional door. If you don't want a door, skip this step.

Using a sharp hobby knife, cut through the scribed lines, as shown, using several passes.

Likewise, decide if you're going to build a standard gable roof, or include the eyebrows (the small triangles at each end of the garage).

If you want to add the eyebrows, you'll need to cut of the small triangular piece on each end of the garage. There are lines scribed onto the back of each wall end to show you where to cut.

Installing Windows and Doors

Dip a toothpick in a puddle of glue (we like yellow carpenter's glue because it won't dissolve in water once dry) and apply it to the bottom edge of the window opening. Then insert the window sill into place.
You can see the window sill has been glued into place on the bottom of the window opening.

Next remove the window trim from the sheet. Remove the adhesive backing, then apply the trip to the window opening.

Next attach the bottom trim, ensuring it's centered horizontally to leave room for the vertical trim pieces that you'll add after assembling the walls.

You can see the window trim and sill in place.

Installing an Open Window

The windows can be installed either in the open or closed position. Here is how you install the window in the open position (the next section shows installing the window in the closed position).

Each window has four tabs that keep the window in place. You'll need to remove the two bottom tabs in order to install the window in the open position.

You might want to touch up the paint where you've cut off the tabs.

It's easiest to apply the window glass before you install the window.

Place the window on a sticky surface, such as removable double-coated tape, so it doesn't move around on you.

Remove the adhesive backing from the window, then place the glass on the back of the window.

The window opening has four slots for the tabs. Apply a small amount of glue to top two slots from the back side. This will hold the window in the open position once the glue dries.

The insert the window as shown, and put the two tabs into the slots.

You'll need to prop the window open while the glue dries. Find an object that is about the right size to keep the window open where you want it and put it in place, as shown. Make sure the window is straight in the slots before you place it aside to let the glue dry.

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Copyright © 2003-2008 New Rail Models, LLC
Last modified: 01/17/08